Best #1 Atlanta Pool Liners | In Ground Pool Liners, Pool Liner Replacement
AWARD WINNING IN GROUND VINYL SWIMMING POOL LINER INSTALLATION.
Vinyl Swimming Pool Liner Replacement Company.
AWARD WINNING IN GROUND VINYL SWIMMING POOL LINER INSTALLATION.
Vinyl Swimming Pool Liner Replacement Company.
At Atlanta Pool Liners we work to exceed your expectations. In Ground swimming pool vinyl liner replacements are not just our job, they are our career! At Atlanta Pool Liners we treat our pool liner replacement customers like a King! We Specialize in In Ground Vinyl Liner Replacements, Pool Renovations and All Swimming Pool Repair services. We Install Pool Safety Covers and will Install or Renovate all Swimming Pools including Our famous Concrete Pool / Gunite Pool to vinyl liner Pool Changeover Job. We also offer pool liners, pool pumps, pool filters, pool salt generator systems, chlorinators, pool steps, pool stair replacements and a variety of vinyl liner pool supplies. We will replace your swimming pools liner or renovate your existing pool. We are swimming pool specialists with the utmost experience in the vinyl liner swimming pool and pool liner replacement industry.
Call Merodynamic Pools Inc. For all of your in ground vinyl liner swimming pool installation needs !
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If you are in the following Zip codes than we will gladly earn your business: 30301, 30302, 30303, 30304, 30305, 30306, 30307, 30308, 30309, 30310, 30311, 30312, 30313, 30314, 30315, 30316, 30317, 30318, 30319, 30320, 30321, 30322, 30323, 30324, 30325, 30326, 30327, 30328, 30329, 30330, 30331, 30332, 30333, 30334, 30335, 30336, 30337, 30338, 30339, 30340, 30341, 30342, 30343, 30344, 30345, 30346, 30347, 30348, 30349, 30350, 30351, 30352, 30353, 30354, 30355, 30356, 30357, 30358, 30359, 30360, 30361, 30362, 30363, 30364, 30365, 30366, 30367, 30368, 30369, 30370, 30371, 30372, 30373, 30374, 30375, 30376, 30377, 30378, 30379, 30380, 30384, 30385, 30388, 30390, 30392, 30394, 30396, 30398, 31106, 30117, 30119, 31126, 31131, 31136, 31139, 31141, 31145, 31146, 31150, 31156, 31192, 31193, 31195, 31196, 39901, 30144, 30066, 30052, 30064, 30068, 30067, 30127, 30120, 30122, 30134, 30187, 30135, 30145, 30157, 30141, 30132, 30080, 30114, 30183, 30115, 30189, 30188, 30143, 30028, 30040, 30506, 30041, 30518, 30519, 30024, 30046, 30047, 30048, 30078, 30501, 30507, 30019, 30017, 30251, 30252, 30253, 30228, 30094, 30223, 30224, 30533, 30540, 30175, 30734, 30171, 30184, 30121, 30102, 30137, 30075, 30350, 30022, 30078, 30047, 30076, 30078, 30019, 30047, 30032, 30035, 30038, 30058, 30034, 30087, 30096, 30097, 30028, 30024, 30015, 30126, 30122, 30236, 30238, 30087
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How to put vinyl pool liner back in track ? Answer: Merodynamic Pools gets a lot of calls for the answer to this question. Your pool liners track is made from plastic or aluminum or steel (old School). Plastic track usually becomes compromised faster then aluminum because of sunlight and chemicals. Aluminum is compromised faster when a pool is not grounded properly or the pool has a salt system with higher than normal salt levels. In over three decades of replacing vinyl swimming pool liners I’ve witnessed so many pool companies make terrible errors in correcting the issue of a pool liner that has fallen out of it’s track. There are two huge errors that you should always avoid when putting your pool liner back in it’s track. These 2 mistakes that I know to be detrimental and will drastically increase your margin for error instead of success are heat guns and blow dryers.
I have seen pool techs and homeowners try both ways. I’ve also noticed that previous pool companies had performed these two procedures with terrible results. Dry heat (Blow Dryers and Heat Guns) will burn your vinyl pool liner or even melt your liner when used to try and get a pool liner back in it’s track.
So How do you get a pool liner back in the track? The easiest way with the best chance for success is to follow Merodynamic Pools simple steps. First, make sure that your fingernails are trimmed! I have seen many times where homeowners or other pool companies try to put the liner back in and have embedded or marred the liner because of sharp fingernails. This marred part of the liner will become the first place that a tear may occur when cold water of winter constricts it or when hot weather expands it.
Remember that any pool company that charges to perform this task is not specially trained, certified or has a degree in “liners out of their tracks”. It’s not hard to accomplish and the average person can accomplish putting their liner back in the track with ease and great results.
Here are the steps that Merodynamic Pools follows:
Boil a large (Spaghetti size) pot of water. Bring it to a rolling boil. Don’t be cautious. It will not hurt your liner. I find it easiest when I set the large pot of boiling water next to the area that the pool liner is out of the track and then I use a smaller pot to scoop the boiling water out of the large pot for easy pouring, accuracy, safety and to eliminate spilling t on yourself.
Drop your water level (only if necessary) to the bottom of your skimmer. This gives you more available liner to heat up. With a high water level in your swimming pool it may still work but your percentages for success may be reduced because you have less bare liner above the water level to work with. I always try to get the liner in the track before I drop the level to save money.
Next, scoop your hot water into the small pot and pour all over the “Liner Bead”(the part at the top of the liner that has a lip on it that hooks into the track. The liner bead goes around the entire pool perimeter.) Pour water on the area that is out of the track and over the liner down to the water line.
An easy way to guide the bead into it’s track is to grab the bead and fold it backwards behind the liner and against the structural wall. Then pull up on the liner bead above and passing the track upwards. After you have pulled it higher than the track that it is supposed to go in, start to lower it. This is when I guide it into the liner track where it belongs.
If there is ever a small spot that gets pinched and does not go in flush with the track you can either heat it again and repeat these steps or use a credit or plastic card to push the pinched area in. Never use a blunt object such as screw drivers, keys, or something that could puncture the vinyl.
This is an easy fix. Swimming Pool companies make a lot of money off of your lack of knowledge for pool liners that have come out of their tracks.
Here is a video we made to show you how this is performed.
We will describe this procedure and give you pointers in our: inground swimming pool opening tips.
1. Drain all water off of your cover. (small cover pump works good, submersible or even syphon the water) and remove all of the leaves and debris with a leaf net before draining, while draining and after draining the water off of your cover. Make sure all debris is removed so there is no chance of it falling in your pool. For a safety cover just blow the cover and deck off with a leaf blower.
2. Drain and remove the water bags from your cover. Remove the cover (requires 2 people for the cleanest results) while ensuring no remaining water that has been left on the winter cover spills into the pool.
3. Clean the winter cover and water bags. I suggest using an anti mildew cleaner. Let your cover and water bags dry and only when they are dry place them in a clean, dry storage area that is rodent, insect and pest free.
4. Remove all winterization plugs including the Gizzmo from your skimmer(s), plugs from your Return(s) and deep wall suction line(s). If Foam freeze guard is used in the bottom drain line then remove that also.
5. Install your directionals (eyeballs) back in your return line(s) of pool.
6. Reinstall your pressure gauge(s), site glass on your filters multi port valve, drain plugs at the bottom of your filter top of your filter (if applicable), pump (front and rear housing plugs), chlorinator (if applicable) and heater (heat exchanger, inlet plugs, outlet plugs and reinstall the temp sensor (if all applicable). I suggest teflon tape for all plugs. Snug tighten them and don’t cross thread them. Reconnect any plumbing valves or quick disconnects that you may have disconnected during the winterization of your pool equipment and lines. Reinstall your backwash line/hose if necessary.
7. If you have a salt system then remove the covers to or plugs to the plumbing lines that lead to the salt cell and reconnect the unions and wire sensor leads to the unit that may have been disconnected.
8. Clean any water line(s) around the inside of your pool and steps. Clean your coping using a pool friendly cleaner.
9. Fill the pool until it reaches the top of the skimmer. Make sure to reinstall the skimmer weir (door/flap) and skimmer basket. Place the pump basket back into the pump. Lubricate all o-rings with aqua-lube (available at any pool store) before placing them back where they go.
10. If you have a cartridge filter then place a new or clean cartridge in your filter.
11. Reinstall pool ladder(s) with escutcheons (cover plates). Make sure that the ladder anchors are tightened for safety. Reinstall your diving board and reconnect all slide water line hardware (if applicable).
13. I always prime my pool pump and perform the start up in the waste position. Once primed, I like to vacuum any algae or debri to waste (shouldn’t be much if pool was closed properly). After vacuuming then turn the pump off and then turn the filter valve to the Backwash position after vacuuming is complete and run to make sure water is clear. Then turn your filter valve to the filter position then turn pump back on.
14. Check the equipment and plumbing for any leaks while running and if you find any then make the repairs.
15. Fill your chlorinator with Chlorine tablets or add the recommended amount of salt if you have a salt system. You may also add a shock or algaecide (salt system users, make sure your system is algaecide friendly) treatment and run for 2 days before checking your water chemistry.
17. Balance your pool water as we describe in our pool chemical balance blog below
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Merodynamic Pools www.merodynamicpools.com 770-720-9905 an answer to this item.
Do it yourself swimming pool leak detection. First when performing your own swimming pool leak detection you must enable patience. Water loss in your swimming pool can become frustrating, incur costly water bills and swimming pool leak detection by a pool company is quite expensive. So where do you start? Well first you should know that a pool should lose approximately 1″ a week to the sun from evaporation. About 1/8″ per day. If kids are splashing and swimming all day that is a different story.
Water loss can be caused by a faulty liner, a hole in a vinyl liner, gaskets in your pool not sealing, faulty plumbing, pump gaskets, filter gaskets, cracked underground light condo-it, freeze damage and many other scenarios.
I always start with the easiest steps. First, where is your water level stopping. If it’s right below the skimmer, then that’s your culprit. If it’s right below the jets then that’s your culprit. If it’s halfway down the light, then that’s the light condo-it (read down below). But don’t ever let your water loss when trial & erroring this go below 4″ of water in your shallow end. You will lose the liners seed and it will shrink.
Many times when I get a call for a leaky pool it is the muti-port valve internal spider gasket on the filter. It becomes compromised over time from chemicals, salt and the elements and starts letting water out through the waste line because it’s not sealing the ports correctly. Check your waste line and see if water is trickling out of the waste line. If it’s hard plumbed into the ground then check your waste line sight glass.
On a vinyl liner pool you should start by evaluating your liners condition. Age, wear, chemical stains, patches are some factors and if you may have drain and cleaned your pool then shrinkage might be the factor contributing to water loss. First and foremost, don’t ever drain your vinyl liner pool as the liner will shrink and never seed properly again like it’s original fit. Your problem may be that you simply need a new liner. The average life of a liner is 8 years. I personally have seen an individual get 24 years out of a 20 mil. thick liner and I have seen an individual get 3 years out of a 30 mil. thick liner. Diagnostics are much easier with a clean pool. I have seen where a leaf was sucked into a hole in the liner and stopped the water loss. The homeowner was sure that the leak had to be at their present water level and searched for 2 days until calling us. We moved the leaf and shot some dye and it sucked right in the hole.
Some things to look for on the liner when looking for a leak is a divot or washed out area. It helps to wear goggles and look closer under water. It’s good to shoot little dye (red ortho used in testing pool water works well) or you can purchase a dye test kit from your local pool store. Check your seals including the stair gaskets, light gasket, skimmer gaskets, return/jet gaskets and your bottom drain gaskets. You will see the dye get sucked in instead of floating next to where you inject it. If you rule out the fact that you may need a new liner or don’t have a puncture or hole in your newer liner the you need to move on to some home remedy diagnostics.
Plug all of your lines. most pool require 1 1/2″ threaded plugs to seal the lines. It’s reassuring to put a little teflon tape on the threads so you know they will not leak. Wait overnight and see if the level dropped? If not then you know your liner and gaskets are holding water. Next, remove just the skimmer plug(s) and wait overnight once again. Repeat this step with any other lines and you should figure which line is leaking if any? Bare in mind that the return/jets are usually spliced or teed underground so if they leak you won’t know which it is without sound testing (professionally done) while the pool is running. If no signs of leaky pipes are found then you now know that the leak is above the water line and it’s time to look into a professional pressure test. Call a professional swimming pool leak detection company.
If all looks good in your personal diagnostics then check your light condo-it. Behind the light (remove one holder screw to remove light) you will see where the wire goes into the underground condo-it. Water sits in the condo-it so in freezing temps the condo-it can crack underground creating water loss. Embed some two part underwater epoxy (JB water Weld at Home Depot) around the wire deep into the condo-it and it will rule out that scenario.
Remember that the smallest physical leak that you spot can create visible water loss over time. What may look like a trickle can cause a huge water loss over time and a hefty water bill.
Visit us at www.merodynamicpools.com or call us at 770-720-9905 for any swimming pool leak detection or pool repair related help that you may need.
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